and venue sealed for my own protection..hehe..), but i clearly remember the butterfly fluttering, or should i say... rummaging in my stomach as i tip-toed towards the beach, sunscreen splashed on all over my body earlier on (i'm a bit terrified of the 
sun FYI). Clad in my fading Triumph swimsut with my worn-out blue T, i remember everyone was looking and smiling at me, particularly because i'm the only girl around holding a surfboard, now you watch that step, gurl.. uh-uh, i could not stop smiling.. standing in the sanking sand just a feet away from the cool water, i tighten my horse-tail, checking out other surfers, all of which are so 'well-done', sunburnt to the bones, bitter chocolate made perfect. Some looked at me with a smile, some just stare with the 'what-de-heck' look on their faces.As i waded through the shallow water, i can't feel my feet, knees wobbly, can't shake off this smirk in my face. i'm seconds away from doing this thing that i normally just do in my sleep. So after reaching deep water, waist-level, i tied ( actually i got someone tied it for me..hehe) the leash to my ankle. i place the board in front me, then hop onto the board to position myself to start paddling. Big wave, here i come! Whoop!! I slipped. Again! I slip. Again! and I slip, and got knocked on the head by my own board. What just happened?! I can't even get myself on the board! Much less to paddle.. much less to surf! And so, there i was, in the water, with the surfboard tied to my leg, confused, bummed out, feeding on the unexpectedness of the situation that i currently have my ass in, im in blurville.. i keep on trying and trying, till my arms are numb. 5 hours in the water, and finally, i managed to get my ass on the surfboard. 5 hours of lesson, and i can now sit and lie on the board. yeah...sitting is believing.. hehe... (Geezzz...those photos sure does make surfing looks damn easy..)
And one thing i gotta highlight to all the girls out there, sure, with all the make-up gone, hair all over the place, you will still look cool in the water with a surfboard, trust me.. :) Sure i got smacked, whacked, slapped, tilted and drowned in the raging water. That's what you'll get first time trying to conquer the wave. Minus the sea water of course, coz i got tips, yeah..tips from those surfers.. ( they turned out to be very friendly by the way..) hold your breath when got gulped by a wave.. Well, though i didn't really get to ride any wave that day, i do get the chance to 'get-in-the-lineup' ( that's what surfers called when they waited for the wave). And those guys,
they were with me every second.. No they didn't laugh, they are surfers, every surfer will have to go through this..Anyway, at the end of the day, i know i just had the most wonderful, extraordinarily amazing experience, anyone would ever had... so to home i marched, could barely walk, could barely feel my arms, ( you will feel your barely-there muscle streched to the limit, result from balancing your ass on the board just now) and i couldn't care less about the hot scorching sun over my head anymore. 5 hours in the water and I'm already black as far as i'm concerned, all beaten-up. But it was well worth it.. every drop of the ocean.. and definitely looking forward for the next rush...
No comments:
Post a Comment